Pearl Grading and Pearl Care

As with any other item that can appear in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and conditions, a standardized system of grading must be used when purchasing or selling pearls. Only in this way can the pearl be described according to mutually agreed-upon and understood terms, so that both buyer and seller can determine a fair price. Unfortunately, the pearl industry as a whole has not adopted a universally used standard grading system. Instead, the specific grading system used often depends upon the specific jeweler or pearl distributor. Eventually a standard system will come into the market - most likely developed by the Gemological Institute of America. Until that time those in the industry must rely on commonly accepted grading systems derived from the quality grading characteristics of pearls. Two major grading systems are in fairly widespread use: the AAA-A system and the A-D system (also called the Tahitian system). These are the most accepted systems, and considered standard by nearly all reputable pearl dealers, both retail and wholesale. Even these systems, however, can become misleading if a seller uses terms from the grading system (such as "AAA"), but uses them to describe a different quality pearl than that which the system is generally understood to be describing. Or a seller could use a term not in the grading system (such as "AAAA") to make it appear that the pearl is beyond even the highest standard quality -- when in reality, that seller's "AAAA" pearls are actually equivalent to the more-common "AAA" grade, and his "AAA" pearls might only be equivalent to the commonly used "AA." Most reputable pearl dealers consider use of "AAAA" or "AAA+" bad taste, or even dishonesty, - simply a way to charge the customer more without providing a superior product. For reasons such as these, it's extremely important when purchasing pearls, to be absolutely certain of the meaning of any descriptive terms used by the seller. If possible, ask to see a written description of each grading term, so that you know exactly what the grade implies. Reputable jewelers will be happy to comply with such a request. Only in this way will you be able to determine if the price the seller is asking is reasonable.

Pearls are soft compared to other gemstones and precious metals. It is important to take special care of your pearls to ensure they will remain bright and beautiful for generations to come. Cosmetics, perfume and hair spray all contain chemicals that can dull the luster of a pearl. The natural acids contained in body oils and perspiration can damage pearls in the same way. It is best to put your pearls on after applying makeup, perfume and hair spray. Wiping the pearls with a soft damp cloth after you wear them will ensure that they remain free from harmful build-ups of these compounds. Periodically, pearls should be washed with a mild soap. Always keep your pearls separated from hard jewelry items, to prevent them from being scratched. Pearls are best kept in a soft cloth pouch or a soft lined jewelry box or compartment. If you wear your pearls often, they should be restrung about once a year to prevent strand breakage. Experts suggest the use of silk thread. However, nylon thread is an acceptable alternative. The string should be knotted between each pearl to prevent all the pearls in a strand from falling off should a break occur. Knotting also keeps the pearls from rubbing against each other.